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In this episode, we will be talking about Edamburu hairstyle worn by Mangbetu women in the early 20th century. Also called the tumburu style, it was popularized and fetishized by fashion designers and movies. We want to thank scholar Vicky Pass for allowing us to use her research for this episode.Thumbnail: Naomi Simms in a fashion editorial, possi…
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This episode is a little different. Firstly, this is a pre-pandemic conversation. Consider this an oral history of friends. Joy talks with friend of the show and scholar Johnathan Michael Square about being black in academia. They share triumphs, challenges, feelings, and advice to those wanting to pursue careers in academia. Talking PointsHow do y…
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In this Fashion In Focus Jasmine reveal the history of the Panama Hat (which is actually the Toquilla Hat) that does not originate from Panama. The woven's hat originated and is still manufactured in Ecuador. Image credit: www.domingocarranza.comResources: https://www.domingocarranza.com/dcpanamahatsblog/https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/panama-hat…
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For this Unravel, After Dark episode Joy and Jasmine discuss the history and symbolism of the nipple in fashion and art. For this Unravel, After Dark episode Joy and Jasmine discuss the history and symbolism of the nipple in fashion and art. We start in the “ancient period” and end somewhere around the Janet Jackson and Justin Timberlake debacle.Th…
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A live introduction to the life of Ruby Baileyhttps://blog.mcny.org/2016/01/05/reintroducing-ruby-bailey/http://www.fashionstudiesjournal.org/histories/2016/8/30/the-life-and-work-of-anne-lowe-zelda-wynn-valdes-and-ruby-baileyhttps://www.nytimes.com/2005/02/13/nyregion/thecity/a-closetful-of-genius.htmlWE HAVE AN AWESOME THEME SONG thanks to Pastic…
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In this FIF Jasmine discuss the history and cultural significance of the Osage wedding coat.Image credit: Image credits: ⁣Wedding Outfit, ca. 1900. Osage (Great Plains). Gift of Fred and Monte Eiserman. 95” H. C/o The Museum of Red River FBWE HAVE AN AWESOME THEME SONG thanks to Pastiche Lumumba:pastichelumumba.comtwitter.com/PasticheLumumbaFind us…
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Coming in hot with an Unravel, After Dark sneak peak. In this episode Jasmine and Joy discuss the provocative photography of Helmut Newton. For the full episode join our Patreon. Image credit: “IMAN, Vogue October 1989 Shot by Helmut Newton Fashion Editor, Andre Leon Talley”Listen to the full episode by joining our Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelp…
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Joy and Jasmine introduce a 3 part series focused on the “ideal body” in fashion. In this first episode, they discuss, analyze and dissect the ideal body in Greek and Roman art and culture.Image credit: Chris Rellas of CopylabWE HAVE AN AWESOME THEME SONG thanks to Pastiche Lumumba:pastichelumumba.comtwitter.com/PasticheLumumbaFind us:Website: www.…
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Jasmine talks to Camila Straschnoy, a brand strategist, trends researcher, and storyteller about her fascinating work in trend and fashion forecasting. Tune in to discover how fashion history informs fashion’s future. Image Credit: Jeff WaltonFind Cami:http://camilastraschnoy.com/Instagram: @camistraschnoyWE HAVE AN AWESOME THEME SONG thanks to Pas…
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This episode is a little different. First, this is a pre-pandemic conversation. Second, because we are in the midst of a revolution and a pandemic we decided to share a new segment created by Jonathan Michael Square and Joy. We discuss what our favorite wardrobe is, who we would want to play us in a movie, and much more.Find Jonathan Michael Square…
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Jasmine interviews Feyisola Adeyemi, the Nigerian-British creative director of the line Luxury by Feyi. They discuss Feyi’s journey in the fashion industry, the luxury design market in Britain, and her advice for young black designers.Find Luxury by Feyi here: Instagram: @luxurybyfeyiWebsite: https://luxurybyfeyi.com/Master Class: https://www.lbfma…
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Joy @joythea chats with Jasmine @jastare about the latest exhibition, Spectrum of Fashion at The Maryland Historical Society @marylandhistory . The show "highlights the extraordinary breadth of the MdHS costume collection across four centuries and features nearly 100 examples of women’s and men’s clothing and accessories, as well as decorative arts…
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Another Fashion In Focus episode is here! Joy talks about the bandolier belt. This was a utilitarian accessory used in battle and in cultures around the world. In the 1970s, however, there was a major case of appropriation. Sources: Anderson, Marcia. "The Ojibwe Bandolier Bag or Gashkibidaagan." In Berg Encyclopedia of World Dress and Fashion: The …
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Joy and Jasmine discuss Dior's brand of feminism under the creative direction of Maria Grazia Chiuri. In 2016, Maria Grazia Chiuri made feminism a part of her artist design statement. It was a huge hit but some were critical that is was diluting the message of feminism protests, the Women’s March, etc. At the time the “We Should All Be Feminists” t…
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Kerry Bannigan is a social impact event creator, producer, and entrepreneur who curates global activations and initiatives that advocate sustainable development. Bannigan is the Founder of the Conscious Fashion Campaign, in collaboration with the United Nations Office for Partnerships, engaging leading global industry event stakeholders to commit t…
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Jasmine talks to Joy about her visit to the exhibition “Jay Jaxon: 40 Years Of Fashion Design Brilliance” at the Queens Historical Society that was curated by Rachel Fenderson. Luckily, the show is on view until December 2020 so you can see it post-pandemic.For more information about this exhibit: https://queenshistoricalsociety.org/featured/jay-ja…
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Joy talks to Jasmine about her thoughts on NYU exhibit Deborah Willis: the Closet as Archive curated by Kalia Brooks. More information on the exhibition: https://tisch.nyu.edu/photo/events/deborah-willis--the-closet-as-archiveFind us:Website: www.unravelpodcast.comPatreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcastPayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcastInstagram:…
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This was a tough conversation to have and research. Thank you to friend and colleagues that have been following the story of Junkai Huang's Alumni runway show, February 2020.Topics: Disfunction, leadership in the design program, who got fired?, all the responses from involved parties, the timeline of events, points to learn fromReferences:https://w…
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In this Fashion in Focus Jasmine details the surprisingly provocative history history of the the diaphanous lace caps of the 18th century.Image: Jean François de Troy, Declaration of Love, 1731.WE HAVE AN AWESOME THEME SONG thanks to Pastiche Lumumba:pastichelumumba.comtwitter.com/PasticheLumumbaFind us:Website: www.unravelpodcast.comPatreon: www.p…
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Joy talks to Jonathan Michael Square about #ADOS and how fashion history can inform policy surrounding reparations for descendants of slavery in the United States.More ways to engage with Jonathan Michael Square:www.jonathansquare.comwww.instagram.com/stylesquaredwww.facebook.com/fashioningtheselfwww.instagram.com/fashioningtheselfwww.jonathansquar…
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In this episode Jasmine talks to Joy about her Instagram archive @recuerdosdenicaragua and her research on the impact of Moravian Mission on Miskitu, Mayagna and Creole dress in the Mosquito Coast of Nicaragua.Jasmine will be presenting at the Dividing Lines: An African American and Native American Symposium at Kennesaw State University, Horace Stu…
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Jasmine and Joy chat about the long history of the sexy furry beauty accessory - the merkin. Don't know what the hell a merkin is? Don't worry, we got you covered ;).Listen to the full episode by joining our Patreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcastImage: Behold: A cat face merkin. (Picture: MerkinBoutique/ Etsy)Theme: Jungle Fever by ChakachasFind u…
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Joy and Jasmine discuss the importance of black magazines as a fashion resource and the Jet and Ebony archives sale in 2019.References:https://bmoreart.com/2020/01/what-can-we-keep.htmlhttps://www.nbcnews.com/news/nbcblk/ebony-jet-magazines-transformed-narrative-black-america-now-their-photo-n1030771https://bmoreart.com/2020/01/hidden-histories-the…
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Joy was recently inspired by a post about these voluptuous hoods on www.vintage.es and decided to research them. There are still many mysteries abound about this hood and how it was constructed. We hope some of our fashion nerds can help us unpack all of this garments mysteries!Edit: Joy mentions that the Azores are off the coast of Spain but in fa…
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Joy talks to Dr. Brandi T. Summers about her work in Black geographies, race and urban aesthetics, architecture and design. Dr. Summers received her Phd from UC Santa Cruz and is an Assistant Professor of Geography and Global Metropolitan Studies at UC Berkeley.You can find Dr. Brandi T. Summers’ work:www.branditsummers.comwww.theblackgeographic.co…
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In this episode Joy talks with friend of the show Jonathan Michael Square. He is a scholar, Harvard lecturer, and publisher who works on subjects about the African diaspora. They discuss the foundation of his work Fashioning the Self, the 1619 project, Fashion and Justice workshop, Monica Miller, and how to get the most out of your time in academia…
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Happy Holidays #fashionnerds! We have an exclusive FIF on the suit worn by one of the most famous magical Christmas figures, Santa Claus! We hope this figure brings you cheer this season.Find us:Website: www.unravelpodcast.comPatreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcastPayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcastInstagram: @unravelpodcastTwitter: @unravelpodcas…
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Joy talked with Senior European Art curator Lisa Small about her fashion in her collection at the Brooklyn Museum of Art. Lisa’s picksMiguel Cabrera (Mexican, 1695-1768). Doña María de la Luz Padilla y Gómez de Cervantes, ca. 1760. Oil on canvas, 43 x 33 in.https://www.brooklynmuseum.org/opencollection/objects/4885Agostino Brunias (Italian, ca. 173…
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In this Unravel, After Dark episode we give you the skinny on the history of the thong. The full episode is available on our Patreon Page at the $5Fashion Nerd & $10 Fashion Lovers levels. Join here: https://www.patreon.com/unravelpodcastRelated Links:Linkshttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iyktF4FOCQYhttps://www.vice.com/en_us/article/gvzabw/cracking…
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In this episode Jasmine Waxes poetic about Yinka Shinobare, Joy waxes poetic about Jasmine curatorial skills, and we manage to talk about the role of dutch wax printing in colonialism. The question is: is dutch wax print a colonial mainstay? We also go into detail about the exhibition Colonial Arrangements at The Morris Jumel Mansion that Jasmine c…
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Joy had the immense pleasure to sit and talk with Senior European Art curator Lisa Small about her work and her history at the Brooklyn Museum of Art. You may be wondering how does a European Art curator contribute to fashion history exhibitions? And we answer all of that for you in this episode!Related Linkshttps://www.brooklynmuseum.org/about/cur…
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It has been a year but here we are! In this FIF Joy reveals the brief history of Claire McCardell’s ballet flats. This is a three part episode that explores the influence of Claire McCardell on key fashion items in both America and Europe.Photo credit: 1943 press photo publicizing McCardell’s collection from Julie Eilber's private collection.Source…
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This episode is not just an exhibition review but a deep dive into the nuances of Cardin's career. Jasmine and Joy discuss the Brooklyn Museum's exhibition "Pierre Cardin: Future Fashion" and talk about some of the highlights. Full disclosure: We did not know how little we knew about Cardin's career! He made such an impact on the 60s-70s that need …
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This the Unravel Minisode series “Fashion in Focus” where we tell you the brief history of a garment, accessory, or textile. In this FIF, Jasmine discusses the early life of Pierre Cardin and his bubble dress.Find us here: Website: www.unravelpodcast.comPatreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcastPayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcastInstagram: @unravelpo…
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Welcome to a special Halloween edition of Fashion in Focus! In this minisode Jasmine talks about the morbid French Revolutionary fashion trend: "mode à la victime."Image: Fashion plate with ceinture a la victime, Journal des Dames et des Modes, 1797. Find us here:Website: www.unravelpodcast.comPatreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcastPayPal: www.payp…
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Wow 100 episodes down and many more to go. Jasmine joins Joy on Unravel Weeklies to talk with friends, colleagues, and fashion nerds about their favorite moments. They also get deep about the process of creating the Unravel platform and the trials of creating free content.What is Unravel Weeklies? It is a sub podcast that happens on Instagram Live …
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Happy Halloween! We made it to 100 episodes with out 5th annual Costume in Horror Film episode on The Crow! Dana and Jasmine talk about the costumes in the 90s cult classic starring the late Brandon Lee.Image: Still of Brandon Lee from The Crow. Find us here:Website: www.unravelpodcast.comPatreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcastPayPal: www.paypal.me…
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On this episode of Fashion In Focus (FIF) Joy discusses a brief history of second hand clothing and the current state of the second hand market in Ghana.Find us here:Website: www.unravelpodcast.comPatreon: www.patreon.com/unravelpodcastPayPal: www.paypal.me/unravelpodcastInstagram: @unravelpodcastFacebook: www.facebook.com/unravelpodcast/Pinterest:…
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Jasmine and Joy discuss the impact of the Majo subculture on Spain and the Bourbon/Spanish empire. We talk about the many connections this style of dress has with other European subcultures and the specific style of majo/maja dress. Midway through Joy distracts Jasmine into a story about her new cat, awww!Find us here:Website: www.unravelpodcast.co…
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In this episode Dana chats with Mandy Lynn Parker, founder and owner of the Comanche Shirt Company about her the history of her business and how it intersects with her Comanche identity, as well as Native entrepreneurship and cultural preservation and education.Find the Comanche Shirt Company:Instagram: @comancheshirtcompanyFacebook: comancheshirtc…
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This the Unravel Minisode series “Fashion in Focus” where we tell you the brief history of a garment, accessory, or textile. In this FIF, Jasmine reveals the history of the ruff.Image: Junya Watanbe, Fall/Winter 2000 Ready-to-wear collection. https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2000-ready-to-wear/junya-watanabe/slideshow/collection#27Find us h…
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This is a recording of the panel conversation from Textile Society of America’s New Professionals Convening: Envisioning Textiles Futures, held on July 27, 2019 at the Fabric Workshop and Museum in Philadelphia.Panelists include Joy Davis, Regan de Loggans, Lynnette Miranda and Karen Hampton. The panel was moderated and organized by Caroline Hayes …
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This the Unravel Minisode series “Fashion in Focus” where we tell you the brief history of a garment, accessory, or textile.In this FIF, Jasmine reveals the brief history of the sandal.Image: Sandals,ca. 1479–1425 B.C. New Kingdom. Thutmose III. Gold sheet. Metropolitan Museum of Art.Find us here:Website: www.unravelpodcast.comPatreon: www.patreon.…
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Kenya Miles has traveled across the world educating herself on dye and dye processes. She is also one of the lead farmers of a dye farm in Baltimore, MD. Joy talks with her about her entrance into farming and dyeing and what she has learned. Visit Kenya's Studio Page: http://www.travelingmilesstudio.comTraveling Miles Studio Instagram: https://www.…
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Joy and Dana sit down with QueerIndigena, AcademicActivist and friend of the pod Regan de Loggans to chat about their presentation "Selling Headdresses to Hipsters" at the Costume Society of America Symposium and oh, so much more. Find Regan here: Instagram: @phaggotplanet & @curanderabotanicaIndigenous Womxns GatheringFind us here:Website: www.unr…
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Joy and Jasmine discuss their summers, self care as fashion scholars and Joy's experience on the TSA panel "New Professionals ConVening: Envisioning Textiles Futures."Image: textilesocietyofamerica.orgFor more information about the panel and the TSA:https://textilesocietyofamerica.org/community/event-list/#!event/2019/7/27/tsa-new-professionals-con…
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Dana and Joy chat with Kirstin Purtich at CSA 2019 about her presentation "Aloha Hawaii: Marketing the Paradise of the Pacific in Mainland Department Stores."Image: Shirt, ca. 1949. Metropolitan Museum of Art.To learn more about the CSA: costumesocietyamerica.com/national-sym…proceedings/Find us here:Website: www.unravelpodcast.comPatreon: www.patr…
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Gala Mukomolova & Rose Blakelock from Big Dyke Energy join Jasmine and dive deep into the world and costuming of The L Word. Why are Bette’s lapels so big? How does Jenny’s wardrobe reflect her chaotic story arch? Shane, why are your pants so low? Listen in to get our exclusive analysis. Listen to Big Dyke Energy: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podc…
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