Merlin Labron-Johnson Confesses his Love for French Cooking, the Challenges of a No-Menu and How to Spot a Michelin Star Inspector

The Filling with Anna Barnett

EPISODE SYNOPSIS

Beautiful Bruton in Somerset is the destination for this week’s The Filling podcast as Anna Barnett

joins chef and restaurateur Merlin Labron-Johnson in his 15 th Century home to chat about his

illustrious career beginning with his training in classical French cuisine, to his successful return to

London and opening 3 restaurants in 5 years (including a Michelin star), and his eventual move to

Somerset where he now runs The Old Pharmacy, a French style épicerie, and Osip, a nose-to-tail

restaurant with no menu: a Michelin starred paean to the local produce.

EPISODE NOTES

13:00 – 14:30) Here Merlin talks through his chef training abroad in Switzerland, France

and Belgium confessing his love of and respect for classical French cooking techniques.

26:00 – 28:35) Seasonality and provenance are very much at the heart of Merlin’s cooking

and underscore the ethos to his restaurants. Here he details how an emotional connection to the

food you’re eating makes it taste better.

29:00 – 32:00) Merlin’s school days are recounted here with the chef confessing that he

wasn’t particularly well-behaved at school. However, this gave him the opportunity to work in the

school kitchen and from there a love of cooking was born.

41:30 – 44:30) Returning from working abroad Merlin had no real plan. So how did taking a

job to pay the bills result in a Michelin star and launching 3 London restaurants in 5 years?

51:00 – 55:00) What does a restaurant that offers no menu to its diners look like? Here

Merlin explains how dishes evolve through seed planting, cultivation, and harvesting: it’s all in the

seasonality.

58:50 – 01:02:00) Merlin passionately recounts his ongoing commitment to working for

refugee charities here cooking for over a thousand displaced people in Lesvos and Calais.

TOP QUOTES

“If I’m a little over-excited it’s because of you and that cookie.” Anna

“Cooking, for me, is about respect for tradition with an eye to innovation.” Merlin

“As a child I was only interested in getting into trouble and then I found cooking and I became

obsessed with being a chef, but not just any chef: the best chef in the world.” Merlin

“Some of the best dairy products, meat and fish I’ve ever had are produced in Somerset.” Merlin

“Limitations create the greatest identities.” Merlin

“We just say hi, thank you for coming, and this is what we’re going to cook for you.” Merlin

“I’m two moths clean of carbs and sugar; and it’s not enjoyable.” Anna

RESOURCES

www.osiprestaurant.com

www.flourishfarmstead.com

www.helprefugees.org

www.imadssyriankitchen.co.uk

www.caffesicilia.it

www.studionicholson.com

www.thefelixproject.org

ABOUT THE GUEST

Growing up in south Devon, Merlin was always surrounded by organic and sustainable farming. His

parents – a poetry writer and museum curator – always made sure there were good organic

vegetables and wholesome food on the table. However, it was a disruptive school-life that found

him assisting in the school kitchen, rather than attending classes, that really inspired Merlin to

become a chef. After training extensively in traditional French cooking techniques across Europe,

Merlin returned to London where he took the job of head chef at ‘Portland’ restaurant; 9 months

later he was awarded a Michelin star. Two more restaurants followed, ‘The Conduit’ and ‘Clipstone’,

before Merlin decided to start his own ventures in Bruton, Somerset. Now he run the French style

épicerie, ‘The Old Pharmacy’, as well as the Michelin starred ‘Opis’ a no-menu restaurant showcasing

the very best of Somerset produce.

Instagram@merlin_johnson

ABOUT THE HOST

Anna Barnett displayed an enthusiastic interest in food, cooking (and especially eating) early in life;

eagerly joining her nan in the kitchen to observe and learn the traditional baking, ingredients, and

recipe techniques that would prove to serve her in the future. After several years working in TV

production and fashion, Anna’s natural culinary passion and energy led to a series of supper clubs,

pop-up restaurants, and professional catering. Subsequently, Anna released her debut cookery book

‘Eat the Week’ in 2015 and spent several years writing ‘The Reluctant Vegetarian’ blog for The

Independent newspaper as well as contributing to Vogue. For over a year and a half Anna wrote the

food pages for Grazia magazine, and now has a column writing for The Evening Standard online

where she shares recipes and food and travel recommendations, as well as interviewing some of the

world’s most eminent chefs.

Instagram: @annabarnettcooks