EP 243: Fundamentals — How to Recover From an Injury

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 5 of 6) — Injuries suck. And unfortunately, they happen to most of us who push against our limits. In part 5, we talk about what to do when you get injured. We cover the emotional and psychological side of injuries and share some tips and pitfalls to help you get back to climbing stronger than ever.

Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals

Revival Climbing Coalition:

revivalclimbing.com

EP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)

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• Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter

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Show Notes:

thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-5

Nuggets:

(00:00:00) – Intro

(00:00:19) – Injuries we thought we wouldn’t come back from

(00:05:02) – Caveats, & the inevitability of injury

(00:09:19) – Jesse’s Tip #1: When you do get injured, see the most experienced climbing-specific professional that you can afford as soon as possible

(00:11:07) – Bonus Tip: Be persistent with your doctor and take control of your future

(00:14:23) – Steven’s Tip #1: Know that it’s going to be ok

(00:16:04) – Jesse’s Tip #2: Understand the relationship between velocity and volume

(00:19:07) – Steven’s Tip #2: Let yourself experience whatever emotions come up

(00:27:08) – Jesse’s Tip #3: Find ways to keep loading or climbing

(00:31:19) – My best onsight season ever

(00:35:07) – Steven’s Tip #3: Treat rehab like training (and how I rehabbed my first pulley injury)

(00:38:41) – Jesse’s Tip #4: Protect your identity

(00:43:16) – Steven’s Tip #4: Take a break from the climbing world if you need to

(00:46:59) – Jesse’s Pitfall #1: Seeing a medical pro who doesn’t understand your sport/identity

(00:52:40) – Steven’s Pitfall #1: Testing/checking your injury constantly

(00:57:28) – More finger rehab tips

(00:58:53) – Jesse’s Pitfall #2: Ignoring it for too long (give your injury a chance to self-resolve)

(01:07:18) – Steven’s Pitfall #2: Thinking of yourself as fragile or prone to reinjury after an injury

(01:09:54) – Jesse’s Pitfall #3: Being negative (talking and thinking negatively about your injury)

(01:14:13) – Steven’s Pitfall #3: Trying to rush the process

(01:15:27) – Bonus Tip: Upper body injury = walk a lot. Lower body injury = Pull-ups.

(01:15:42) – Wrap up